We were supposed to summit today the 10th. But too many issues had the team have to retreat back down the mountain. I had mentioned that the fixed ropes on the last part of the summit were not in place when we left. The Sherpa were at camp 4 ready to place them but due to high winds and very cold temperatures they were not able to. We had half the team @ camp two and half the team at camp 3. We were three days from summit when the weather window closed on us. We all had to retreat to Base Camp until there is another opportunity. As you can imagine this plays on your mind. Really too much for about 1/2 the team. When your mind thinks your going to be pool side or on your way home in few days and that doesn't happen and it may be a couple more weeks on the mountain, it's hard to accept. So here's the deal. There are only three climbers (me being one) and one guide still here waiting for our opportunity to get to the top. Three climbers and a guide all flew off the mountain this morning to go home. Also we've lost two of our three guides to sickness and they too have helicoptered off the mountain. The word is that the weather may not clear up until roughly the 20th. 10 days away. Being at base camp (roughly 17,500 ft) is very civilized meaning the food is great, we have a central tent where we eat and socialize (see picture), we have our own individual tent where it's much easier to sleep and there is actually a restroom. Camps two and three are very difficult places to live, even for a few days at a time. Much colder where you pretty much live in your down suit. It's difficult to eat and sleep above Base Camp. There are about 400 climbers trying to get to the summit. We were way ahead of the game poised to summit on the 10th before any other teams. Now I'm afraid that we're going to be in the mix with everyone when the weather clears and we once again push for the summit. I'll keep everyone posted.
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Sorry for the lack of communication
April 4, 2017
Difficult to sleep last night because of the elevation.